SPERM WHALE TRIP REPORT

Dominica Island, Caribbean
March 8 - 15, 2025

 Report and images by expedition leader, Graeme Purdy.

The first half of the week was all about sperm whales. We traveled the length of the island searching for them, scanning the horizon while storm cells drifted over parts of the island. Conditions at sea were fine, giving us a front-row seat to the ever-changing moods of the ocean.

We spent a couple of days with the V Group. 

One of the biggest advantages of working with seasoned local guides and captains is getting insider knowledge about the different whale groups.

Each has its own unique characteristics, and the V Group is known for being a little aloof. True to form, they were happy to let us swim alongside them but weren’t in the mood for much interaction.

With whales, it is always on their terms. Whether they choose to hunt, socialize, or simply be alone, the decision is entirely theirs.

There is great satisfaction in knowing we are treating them with the respect they deserve.

The first few days provided everyone with multiple opportunities to enter the water. Conditions were fairly calm, and the warm waters made each drop a pleasant experience. The highlight came when a juvenile sperm whale swam beneath us, slowed down, and rolled onto her back. Out of nowhere, two pantropical dolphins appeared and began circling her. Witnessing two different marine mammals interacting like this raises so many questions about their behavior, communication, and relationships in the ocean.

The second half of the week took a turn. The sperm whales had moved out of the area, and we could only hear them faintly in the distance. 

But in their absence, the pilot whales arrived.

Sperm whales are undoubtedly iconic—the largest brains on the planet, the largest toothed predator, and a species steeped in history and intrigue. But pilot whales? Far fewer people have heard of them, let alone know much about their lives. Yet, these animals are some of the ocean’s most formidable predators.

Pilot whales fear nothing. Even orcas have been known to leave the area if they hear pilot whales approaching. They travel in larger groups than orcas and are reputed to prey on orcas. In fact, they are responsible for much of the damage seen on sperm whales’ flukes. They target baby sperm whales, and when the sperm whales form their defensive “lotus” position, pilot whales bite and attack their flukes, making them one of the ocean’s most relentless hunters.

And we had two incredible days swimming with them.

Despite their name, pilot whales are actually part of the dolphin family, just like orcas. They are built for speed and power, their muscular bodies cutting effortlessly through the water. Swimming with them is unlike anything else—their presence is commanding, their movements deliberate, and their sheer size awe-inspiring.

Amongst our encounters with the pilot whales, we also crossed paths with pantropical dolphins riding the bow of the boat and bottlenose dolphins that were more than happy to exhaust us as we tried to keep up with them. Swimming with dolphins and pilot whales requires an entirely different pace—quick reflexes, fast kicks, and a willingness to push yourself. By the end of those days, there were quite a few tired limbs from all the time in the water.

To give our bodies a break, we treated ourselves to a trip to the volcanic sulfur springs deep in the Dominica jungle. Soaking in the warm, mineral-rich waters was the perfect way to relax and reflect on everything we had seen.

Our final surprise came in the form of an oceanic whitetip shark. These sharks are known to linger near pilot whales, opportunistically picking up scraps. This beautiful juvenile cruised by us slowly, its sleek body moving with effortless confidence, before disappearing into the blue.

The trip was truly a week of two halves—one dedicated to the mystery of sperm whales, the other to the raw energy of pilot whales and dolphins. The diversity of encounters, the range of species, and the incredible moments nature gifted us left us all buzzing. It was the kind of week that reminds you why the ocean is the greatest storyteller of all.

A special thanks to our friends for joining us on Dominica, and a huge thank you to my brother Graeme for guiding our group this week.