We ended our whale shark expedition and had a couple of days to relax and just do nothing if we wanted to, but that just wouldn’t be our style, the Yucatan is rich with animal life and we needed to go and find something wild.
BUT FIRST…
fishermen turning in their tools of the trade.
We said goodbye to our friends on Isla Mujeres, and then a few hours later, we attended a ceremony to celebrate, and kick off the new Shark Eco-tourism project on Isla Mujeres. It is an exciting project that will hopefully change the lives of many people for the better, and save thousands of sharks. The Saving our Sharks conservation group has secured funding and has reached an agreement with the commercial shark fishermen cooperative to try ecotourism vs. Shark Fishing. This is a three year project that will hopefully create annual sustainable income for the fishermen by taking tourists out to see sharks vs killing them.
Talking to the shark fishermen about my experiences with eco-tourism and it’s financial importance to the local economies.
There are many stages to this project and it is going to take a lot of work to make it happen, but it is exciting to think that if it does work, real change will have happened here… for the people, for the sharks, for the island and for our oceans.
I sit on the board for this organization and am extremely proud to be a part of it and will do what I can to try and help it succeed. Anyway, I am going to write many blogs about this project, because there are so many layers to it, but first… an adventure post.
Tamara and Sophia prepping tanks at the cenote.
After we left Isla Mujeres, Mari, Sophia and I had a couple of days to rest and relax before we went home, but decided instead to check out some spots that I had been hearing about. Originally we wanted to go back to Punta Laguna, near Coba to photograph spider monkeys and howler monkeys, but instead decided to check a croc spot in a cenote in the city of Tulum.
Tulum is not really a place I spend much time at. I am not really a fan of how fast the place is growing. I liked it the way it used to be, as a small one horse town. Now, it’s turned into little Hollywood, just not my thing. A lot of people like it, but I like smaller places; Less people, more nature. But Tulum does have some Cenotes with pretty exciting wildlife in them, and that is why I am here.
I had been hearing stories about a morelet’s crocodile named Panchita, made famous by the locals, that was hanging around one of the cenotes in town. I filed the story away in the back of my mind as a one day I will check it out.
Slowly more and more photos and videos started surfacing of Panchita and that was it… I decided we needed to check out. So I called up a friend who works in the area, and Maritza, Sophia and I went to see what it was the locals were raving about and yup, I am a fan.
Our buddy Tamara works with one of the local dive shops that specializes in cave diving and cenotes. She happily set us up to find this beautiful little croc. This was my first time seeing this species, so I was on fire to snap some images of the beauty. There was a very specific shot I was after, which is the crocodile ascending, to the surface from the depths below, with mangroves in the back ground. That is the shot I had in my mind’s eye.
One of the images I had envisioned.
The morelet’s croc is a small species, they do not get very big, maybe six feet on average. The one here in the cenote is extremely habituated, and super very well behaved. She is used to seeing snorkelers and swimmers all day long, and everyday, so she is very tolerant.
However most people who visit this particular cenote are not expecting to see a croc, and react in one of two ways, either with fear or fascination. I watched from below on scuba as she was swimming around on the surface, tourist snorkelers swimming all over the place, most not knowing she was there. But the moment they would see here… it turned to complete chaos . A couple was snorkeling right next to her and never saw her. The guy turned and saw her, and freaked the hell out. He panicked, and then his girl panicked and they both swam away from her as fast as possible. Thankfully there are guides there to make sure no one really harasses or grabs her.
Of course, one of the guides thought I was too close and aggressively asked me to move back, which I did. But moments later allowed his snorkeling guests to come in and see her as they finlessly kicked and flailed towards her, trying to get a closer look. Eight snorkelers all flapping around trying to look at her. She tired of them, and then tucked herself away into an area where they could not get close to her, because they were on snorkel. She has a few hiding spots like that through out the cenote to evade her gawking fans so she can hang out in peace, which is cool.
Darter swimming. Really want another shot at photographing this beauty.
She tucked up on one of her spots, and we quietly entered to watch her for a bit and then left her alone to rest, and went off to find one of the other residents of this cenote, a diving bird called a Darter, or Anhinga, or a snake bird. These birds dive down into the water and swim around hunting for fish, they have a snake like neck that they coil and use their beak like a spear, piercing the fish when they hunt. Their bill has serrated edges to keep the fish from sliding off once it is stabbed. Wicked cool birds.
The bird was hunting for fish and it allowed me to follow it along, I tried hard to get a close up shot of it underwater, but I never did get close enough. I got a few shots, but none that I was excited about. Looks like I need to get back there, and soon!
One of my favorite shots of the day.
After I finished dancing around with my bird, we went back to check out the croc and sure enough it was on the move again, so we followed her around and then it happened, Panchita dove down, and slowly rose back up. I was on fire, snapping shot after shot, hoping that one or two of them would come out. She swam around for a while longer, dropping down a few more times, I fired away. I was not sure how the images were going to come out, because she dropped a few times in spots that were pretty shadowy so I wasn’t sure if they were going to come out.
A few times she rested in spots on the surface where the sun light was directly overhead and I snapped a few of those shots, hoping one or two of them would work out. I could of stayed with this beautiful croc for hours, but my Sophia was turning blue from the cold water. I had not realized it had almost been three hours of diving.
We called it a day and headed back to the spot where we exited the cenote. Right by the steps, I looked down and got one more final treat, a blue crab had climbed out of its hiding hole into the light and was walking along the bottom on a boulder covered in green algae, giving a beautiful color contrast to its brilliant blue body. I stopped to snap a couple of shots of it before it scurried off.
I surfaced and there was Tamara with her gopro in hand asking the three of us if we were happy or extremely happy. The three of us at the same time said, “extremely happy”.
It was such a good day and such a good dive. Thanks again to Tamara, we are already looking forward to our return to this crazy town, for another shot at this perfect croc.
Thank you for reading.
A trio of Badass ladies; Tamara, Maritza, and Sophia.
