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wildlife travel

Photographing Polar Bears in the Snow!!!

1/2500, f5.6, ISO 400.

Churchill, Canada, is often referred to as the "Polar Bear Capital of the World," and for a good reason. The bear activity here is absolutely EPIC!

With its breathtaking landscapes and opportunities for up-close encounters with amazing animals, it’s a dream destination for any wildlife photographer.

I had the privilege of spending the past two winter seasons on the tundra, capturing these iconic animals in their natural, snowy environment.

1/1600, f11, ISO 400.

1/1600, f11, ISO 800.

Churchill’s landscape is like something from another world. Endless stretches of snow and ice create a stunning white canvas, interrupted only by the occasional patch of frozen tundra, and boulders that pepper the landscape.

The light changes throughout the day. Most of the time it is amazing with a lot of sun, other times the cloud cover will darken it all. But those cloud covered days do help soften that harsh afternoon light, which allows us to shoot throughout the day.

Mornings are epic, with the golden hues of dawn casting a magical glow over the snow, creating perfect conditions for photography.

1/1000, f5.6, ISO 1000.

Winter is truly an epic time to be out here. It is beautiful, and romantic, and dramatic, and on and on and on… but damn it is COLD!!!

It can be so cold, that my fingers can only hold the camera for short spurts before I have to cover them up, because they hurt so bad.

Some days the conditions are just perfect, and you can shoot all day outside, but other days, man the air is sharp as daggers, and you have to seek shelter from it, because it hurts.

Being out here, you can’t help but feel a deep respect for the creatures that are so perfectly adapted to thrive in this unforgiving environment.

1/2000, f5.6, ISO 2000.

The real thrill of this adventure is being on the ground, capturing polar bears up close. We used vans that are tough and built for this weather and terrain, allowing us to get close to the bears without compromising our safety or theirs.

There’s something incredibly personal about being at ground level with these iconic predators. You feel their presence, and the sheer wildness of these guys.

They have these massive Tundra Buggies in Churchill, which are cool, but I have never been a fan of shooting from a raised platform or a distance. I prefer ground shooting… just love to get close.

Photographing polar bears from the ground is exhilarating, but it’s not without its risks.

I admit, you are never really safe anywhere you go on the Tundra. The bears keep you wary and always looking over your shoulder. Of course this is why we always have a bear guard with us at all times, when we are out there.

Their presence allowed us to focus on capturing the bears without that added worry of danger.

1/600, f5.6, ISO 500.

But I admit I love that feeling of knowing we are out in a raw and wild place where you are never truly safe. There are not many places left in the world that are still truly wild… Churchill is one of those places.

And maybe that’s why this experience means so much to me. It’s not just about the photos—it’s about feeling alive in a place where nature is still in control.

Churchill reminds me that there are places where we’re just visitors, and for me, that’s where the magic happens.

1/1600, f5.6, ISO 400.

Shooting in Churchill’s snowy conditions presented some unique challenges. The bright, white snow can easily fool a camera’s light meter, leading to overexposed images.

Here are the settings I used to get the best results:

  1. Exposure Compensation: I found that dialing in +1 to +1.5 exposure compensation helped prevent the camera from underexposing the scene. The snow tends to trick the meter into thinking it’s brighter than it is, so adding some exposure brings back the true detail.

  2. ISO: The light was often low, especially during dawn and dusk, so I used an ISO range of 400 to 800 to maintain a fast enough shutter speed while keeping noise at a manageable level.

  3. Shutter Speed: To freeze the action of a moving bear, I kept my shutter speed at 1/1000s or faster. When the bears were resting, I could drop it to 1/800s, but with these active animals, faster is generally better.

  4. Aperture: I shot with a fairly wide aperture, around f/4 to f/5.6, to create a shallow depth of field that allowed me to separate the bear from the background while keeping enough of the animal in focus.

  5. White Balance: I set my white balance manually to "Cloudy" or "Shade" to add warmth to the scene and counteract the blue tones that can dominate snowy environments.

  6. Focusing Mode: I used continuous autofocus (AI Servo) to track the bears as they moved. These animals can be unpredictable, and having the camera continuously adjust the focus was essential for getting sharp images.

1/1600, f5.6, ISO 320.

Churchill... We have arrived!

July 27, 2024 The official arrival day of the trip. Everyone is here. Tatiana and Kira arrived yesterday with me, and Christine made it today. Thomas was already here; he arrived last week to explore Churchill with his wife. He shared images from his time with another lodge and a visit to Fire Island. Lots of bears feeding there, fat on a beluga carcasses.

I need to get out there, man.

The boyz… Kenny and Jeromy.

Today, my friend and local bear guide Kenny took me out on his tinny (his boat). Just the two of us, it was cool. Jeromy, another good friend, was grumbling

because he wanted to go too. Lol, kids.

I get it; I would be jealous if they went without me. All of us are just grown-ass kids, wanting to do cool things all the time. Lol. It fills me with gratitude connecting with locals on these adventures. All of us with a strong love for nature and friendship that will last a lifetime.

We went out on the boat to find a bear that was at the point. We found it resting in the fog.

The fog was thick!

We motored around for a bit. I tried to get a photo of the bear, but the fog was too thick. So, we left the bear alone and just enjoyed watching the belugas circling our boat. They were really intrigued.

The tinny is great because you can hear the belugas. Their sounds echo.

With some editing I managed to remove the fog and bring out the bear. Even though the fog looked cool and spooky. I like to see the animals in my photos. lol

I think they might have been intrigued with the echo from the tinny and wanted to listen to it closer because they kept coming up to us over and over.

The belugas made some crazy noises that I recorded. That was wicked cool. I put together a video clip from the day. Going to be filming more stories on this trip.

I really do love storytelling.

So far, Churchill has been almost perfect.

The airline left my bag in Atlanta and has been slow to get it to me. It's been three days.

But despite not having my bag, I am filled with gratitude again. I had no issues getting here. All my flights were on time, and thankfully, I have my cameras with me. To help me survive waiting for my bag to catch up, I stopped at Walmart in Winnipeg to buy some extra clothes and toiletry stuff.

So I am blessed. All is well. Especially with the nightmares people have been experiencing at airports lately, I feel really lucky to have gotten to Churchill without any delays.

Sadly, I don't have my wetsuit, which is fine. I can rent it from the hotel. But my mask and snorkel, man! Gonna miss having that.

Hopefully, I will only have to deal with it for one more day.

The bag is supposed to arrive on Monday. Feeling confident it will be there for me.

Today is our first day in the water... the adventure is off to a great start!

Final Trip of the 2023 Season!

We just returned from our final trip of the 2023 season.

Tigers and Great Hammerheads in the Bahamas.

It was bitter sweet.

It has been a long and year wonderful year.

I am grateful to everyone who has traveled with us. I am grateful to everyone who has followed our journey.

I am thankful that we are able to share so much magic with so many wonderful people.

This job has been a dream and I am filled with gratitude that I get to do this everyday.

Showing people animals and amazing places has become more than a job to me. Yes it is my passion, but I also feel it is my duty.

My responsibility.

My life’s work is to share and show people what is left of our wild places, and the animals that call those places home.

Hopefully these places will remain wild forever. Humans are so greedy for land and for progress that I don’t know if they will.

But as long as I have breath, I will continue sharing and showing our wild places to people to hopefully spark the need to protect what is left.

It’s an uphill battle, but it is worth it. Animals are worth it. The Earth is worth it, and people are worth it.

The world is full of magic my friends… My dream is to help keep it that way.

Going to be sharing a lot of highlights with you all as we near the end of 2023 .

Until the next post, thank you for reading and sharing this journey with me.

Virtually and out in the world… I appreciate you.

Tiger and Great Hammerhead Group Photo. Final one for 2023.

The Ocean is Always Calling!

We all have dreams—especially us wildlife guys (and girls). We dream about traveling, hiking, and diving in unique places and sometimes not-so-amazing places - all in pursuit of finding elusive animals.

I love the land stuff; the forests, the mountains, the Arctic Tundra. There is so much majesty and mystery out there.

I can't get enough.

But… there is nothing in the world like the ocean, and all her magic and all her beauty, and all her secrets.

I dream a lot about the ocean and all the beauty swimming around within her belly.

With the ocean, you never know what she will gift you. It is a fantastic place, and every day is different — she will always surprise you.

But as impressive as the ocean is, she can also be cruel, and she will test a person's soul to see if they are worthy of her greatness.

I have spent countless hours on and in the ocean, and there have been many times when I wished I had never set one foot on a boat.

There have been moments when I cursed the ocean, winds, and the tides, afraid for my life.

I have prayed and begged to be back in the safety of dry land.

Wishing I had chosen rock climbing, or mountain biking, or basket weaving instead of ocean wildlife as my passion.

Of course, when it is all over, and I am dry again, like a true addict, I am already planning my next ocean adventure.

The ocean continues to call to people like me. There is a deep love for ocean wildlife and a need to see them and interact with them.

It pulls at my very soul.

It is tough to explain to people who do not dive for animals. Because unless you drop down and see them for yourself, you will never understand the greatness of nature and the ocean.

Out there in those waters, magic happens, and dreams come true.

Out there is a beauty, unlike anything you will ever see on land.

Under those waves, we are free, and sharing mere moments with sharks, whales, or a sea horse is worth all the ocean beatings, all the wind storms, and all the freezing rain a human soul can endure…

Damn it!

Now I am all fired up and itching to get back out there again.

Days Like Today Are Why I Want to Live Forever!

Day Six, our final day of the trip, and it was the BEST day of the trip too.

We left at 9am this morning and motored out to the South side of the island to listen for sperm whales. We knew the Utensils pod went south when the pilot whales arrived three days ago, but we were hoping they would come back.

The Utensils pod is one of the friendliest pods off Dominica, and is great for interactions. We dropped the hydrophone and listened, but zero clicks. No sperm whales were around. So we decided to head North and see if the sperm whales were on the other side of the island.

While in route, we found out why the sperm whales were gone from the South side. The pilot whales had returned. The pod we encountered on day three was back. When we found them three days ago, they were headed South and out into the Atlantic. The pilots returned and were now headed North.

At this point we knew any search for sperm whales would be difficult, so we decided to embrace what nature has presented to us and just hang out with the pilot whales.

I am so glad we did.

We positioned the boat 100 yards in front of the whales and killed the motor. The pilot whales did something we did not expect, they swam straight up to the boat, stopped swimming and all of them began spy hoping. We were all putting on swim gear, but this sort of stopped us in our tracks. What were they doing?

A quick video of the pilot whales behavior. I was torn between capturing topside and getting in the water, so its a short video.

A group of about thirty whales were all on the surface, not swimming, just hovering there by our boat, seemly taking turns sticking their faces out of the water, looking at us. It was insane!!!

I was torn between filming the spectacle and grabbing my kit and jumping in the water. Bill, our captain said he has never seen this behavior before. Not in the numbers that we were seeing today.

I captured a few stills, and tried to record a little bit of video, but my need to get in the water won me over, and I put the topside camera down and went to grab my swim gear.

I am trying really hard to find the words to describe what we all experienced today, it really is hard to find the words. To quote Jodie Foster from the movie Contact… “they should of sent a poet, no words.” I know it sounds cheesy, but the day was above and beyond anything I normally have experienced with whales.

The whales would hang out, then swim off. We would get back on the boat, get ahead of them and jump in again. The whales would swim back to the boat and interact with us again, and we did this over and over again for five hours straight.

The whale would swim up to us, roll, and play, and hang around us and then swim off again. Sometimes dropping down into the depths, other times just swim off into the distance. It was true magic.

After about three hours we decided to give them a break, eat lunch and just watch them from the boat. I was about to eat my wrap when the pilot whales swam back to the boat to find out what happened to us. It seemed they wanted to know where we went. They again were hovering right by the boat, some of them were spy hopping, waiting to see if we were going to jump back in.

My heart and mind were exploding.

So we scrapped the lunch idea and back into the water we went. We continued swimming with them. It was non-stop… the whales kept coming up to us. One of the juveniles took a big interest in our cameras and kept coming up close to get a good look at the dome ports. Maybe it was looking at it’s reflection, I don’t know?

This went on for the next two hours.

On our final jump of the day, we jumped in and the whales dove down to avoid us. We took that as a sign that they were done and it was time to call it a day.

The emotions on the boat were at an all time high. All of us were on fire… this was the stuff that dreams are made of. I have had some amazing moments in the water, but this day ranks up there with the very best of them.

Sandy, one of our friends on the trip said it best, “Days like today are why I would want to live forever.”

Wanted to say a special thanks to the beautiful people of Dominica, and a HUGE thank you to our friends who joined us out there, it was an amazing week. Luv you guys.

Until the next one and thank you guys for reading.

A Beautiful, but Tough Day at Sea.

Day Four of our sperm whale expedition off Dominica was ok. We found the sperm whales, but they are still a bit skittish from yesterday’s pilot whale visit. Most of the whales have moved out into deeper waters. A bit too far for us to follow, so we didn’t try to find them.

We did have a pod still hanging around, but this group is unknown and did not want anything to do with us. We tried a few jumps, but the animals kept their distance. We did get a few jumps in with them, but nothing like our previous days. So we decided to leave them alone and try and find a friendlier pod.

Sadly we did not have any luck.

During the down time, our friends Tatiana and Graeme recorded some clips for a project they are working on.

We did get a few jumps in with them, but nothing like our previous days. We had some fun passes (while we were on the boat), from spotted, and Frasier’s dolphins., thats always fun. Plus we were in good company, so it was a nice day... But hoping for some better action tomorrow.

We still have two more days. Hoping the sperm whales return so we can finish up this trip with a bang.

Until tomorrow, thanks for reading.

Day One Was Fun... Love Dem Sharks!

Canon 5D M4, with an 8-15MM fisheye, in an Aquatica housing - my settings were 1/400, f9, ISO 800

Day one off Isla Mujeres for whale sharks is in the books.

It was a really good day, and the conditions were amazing. Thankfully there was quite a few sharks out here, maybe around fifty whale sharks. It was not the hundreds that we normally see out during this time of year. But it is early in the week, and I am predicting that the number of sharks will keep increasing over the next few days.

We have had the same captains for our trips for the past 12 years. Captain Gabby and Rami greeted us at the pier this morning and asked Mari where Sophia was, she pointed her out, they did not recognize the young lady before them. She started coming out with us on our whale shark trips when she was 5 years old, she is now 16 years old. Because of covid, it has been two years since they have seen her. They were blown away. Captain Gabby got a bit teary eyed. It was so sweet.

Heading out this morning.

Super happy with the day we had today, our captain told us that the shark action the previous weeks had been super slow. But that is nature, you never know what she is going to gift you with. Thankfully we arrived at the right time… and if this week goes the way I think it will, it should be a good week.

Today, it is official…when I jumped in the water with the sharks this morning, that made 18 years of swimming with the whales sharks in Mexico.

18 years!!!

We started running these trips back in 2005, and here we are all these years later, still out here, and still enjoying the hell out of it. I really love being in the water with these animals, it is still a lot of fun to me. That has not changed, and I don’t think it ever will.

Canon 5D M4, with an 8-15MM fisheye, in an Aquatica housing - my settings were 1/400, f9, ISO 800

Ok, headed to bed, just thought I’d share a little bit of our day’s adventure, and a couple shots I captured. There is a lot of food in the water so the vis and the images are a bit dirty, but that is why the sharks aggregate together in these kind of numbers. Lots of munchies and crunchies to eat.

Day two tomorrow.

Until then… good night my friends.

A GOLDEN MOMENT

Life on Location.

In our last newsletter, I shared with you our new sponsor Cinebags. When I received the box with all my goodies in it, I was excited about everything sent to me. It is always fun getting new gear for your travels.

I can't wait to use it all.

However, what stood out for me was their product Thank You card and the small catalog in the box, promoting all their bags and merchandise. On the cards and catalogs were images of their gear, out in the world, being used by people just like me and you - experiencing life, with the words, Life on Location on it.

Life on Location is the company's motto or tagline. Their motto and their catalog got me so fired up. As I looked at those images and read those words, my mind magically transported me to my next adventure. I felt travel anxiety and wanted to be out there right now.

Receiving that package was an experience. I loved it.

Markus (the owner of Cinebags), left me in awe of not only his product but his storytelling abilities. I was sitting there, with my mind racing about my own storytelling skills, hoping that is what we are able to do when we share experiences with you all.

Jaguar off the Northern Pantanal, Brazil.

Every time I share images or write a trip report or a travel blog, my goal is to hopefully transport you to wherever it is we are. I want you to feel the excitement we feel when we photograph or find the animals we are looking for, helping you long for your own adventures.

I am sure we do not always accomplish this, but I hope that most of what we put out into the world gets you fired up. Of course, sometimes I think I over-share by writing about our bad days - talking about terrible seas or days that the animals do not show up.

Beluga whales in the Churchill River. Churchill, Canada.

That is not good business, I am told.

But to me, if I just shared only the good things from our adventures, my stories wouldn't be stories, they would be fairy tale sales pitches, and that is not me.

We have good days and bad days. That is just life and the reality of looking for wild things. I know our job when we write is to transport you to a magical place, but those far away sites are real, and this is not Disney - they sometimes have crappy weather and hard-to-find animals.

Off the Beaten Path. Searching for anacondas on the Southern Pantanal, Brazil.

That is just part of the job, and what makes each interaction so special. 

To find the animals we photograph takes work. They are wild and free, and sometimes nature is not kind.

Leopard shark diving off La Jolla Shores, California.

Night safari off Borneo Malaysia.

For me, it should not be easy, it should be a challenge. So that when you do find them, the emotions you feel are the true reward, and the excitement is just the best.

Of course, when we do find them, those are my favorite stories to write. Journaling my thoughts, and looking at the images we captured at the end of a long exciting day… I am filled with fire as I am writing. 

And that fire is what I hope comes out in the writing and images that I share.

Orca diving off Baja, Mexico.

I want to move you so much that you take action in your own life. I want you to create your own memories and write your own stories… all of those perfect and imperfect moments that you will happily carry with you forever.

Thank you for reading.

Crocodile diving off Banco Chinchorro, Mexico.


The New Year Begins!

Photographing sperm whales. Image by Jean F. Dobois

It is Monday, and the new week, to a new year has officially begun. So for all of you that have kicked it off with New Year Resolutions, we wish you all the best with them - We hope you achieve them all. 

For those of you that did not create any NY resolutions - good for you, for not wanting or needing to start the year out that way. 

I always kick off the year with new goals. I set travel goals, business goals, personal goals, and weight goals. In my past, some goals I accomplished, some I did not, especially that weight goal of mine. That one always seems to fall short, damn it.

But, this year, I do hope to fulfill my NY goal list. It just means more fun and a much more fulfilling year once I do., and my wetsuit will fit better. lol

Diving with a blue whale. Image by Graeme Purdy

Photographing green anaconda. Image by Daniel De Granville

One of my more important goals is to stay connected with you all via newsletters, blogs, and vlogs. I seem always to start out strong, and by the time our summer season arrives, the blogs get further and further apart. 

Travel life can be taxing on a storyteller's soul. Of course, travel is where we thrive and find the stories that we share. But, some days are just emotionally draining on your soul.

So sometimes when you reach the end of the day, and you are have nothing left to give, you just do not feel like document your day. I have been there so many times. Some days are just emotionally draining on your soul. But reflecting, I need to remember that this is where the heart and soul of a story lies, in those moments.

photographing humpback whales. Image by Pat Ford

However with the craziness of our new global realities, I am no longer taking our ability to travel and see the world for granted. With how regulated many places are, I will be documenting everything, everywhere we go, and I will be sharing a lot more with you all. And - I invite you to keep me in check if I start slipping. Call me out on that shit please.

But I promise I will not this year. I have been really wanting to document an entire season from start to finish, I have never done that, but this year I will make it happen.

Anyway, the year has begun and the work starts. We do not begin our travel season until January 30, so until that time, I will be sharing past stories, from previous adventures that I have yet to share.

Until then…

Wishing you guys a beautiful start to the new year. I hope it is filled with a lot of love, light, and adventures!

Photographing a spectacled caiman. Image by Juca Ygarape

Travel Day... Goodbye Dominica, See You Next Season!

IMG_6776.JPG

August 18, 2021 - 9AM in Texas! I made it home. Well, most of the way home. I met up with my family in Houston, we are roading tripping the rest of the way.  My flight home was a painful one. I ended up booking flights on Kiwi.com which got me home through the crappiest flight plan possible. Four stops and all with super tight connections that had me sprinting from gate to gate. I also had to grab my bags at each stop and recheck in, going through security check points as well. That was painful, but thankfully I have TSA, so it made it easier. I recommend doing that if you do not have it yet. It is worth it if you travel more than once a year. 

 It was exhausting, but it made the 12 hours of travel pass quickly, and it made me appreciate myself and my journey much more. I mean, these are first-world problems. With all the real problems going on around the world, it makes my travel issues fall hard in comparison, so I am good.

What an adventure Dominica was… just wow! This trip exceeded my expectations, and it was everything I hoped it would be and more! Sperm whales are magical animals and true ambassadors for the whale species. I have spent time in the water with other species of whales, which are all special in their own way, but sperm whales are insanely amazing. 

Grey whale off Baja Mexico.

Grey whale off Baja Mexico.

Grey whales are unique in that they willingly will swim up to boats and ask for interaction. However, the moment you jump in the water with them, they will swim away from you. I am not sure if this is true across the board or just how these whales off Mexico are conditioned? They do not allow people in the water with them either way, so it is hard to find out if they do. My belief is, they would enjoy it, or at least the juveniles and the females would. We are out there during mating season, and the females are incredibly flirty. So it is possible that they might want to interact with us if we got in. However, the males would probably be protective of the females and force them to move on if their behavior is anything like the humpbacks.

Female humpbacks often accept divers, but their male escorts will often move the females away from us. Putting themselves in between us, and the female and calves, and then swim off with them. My guess is an attempt to show the females they are brave and strong suitors.

Mom and calf humpback off Tonga. A male suitor in the back ground keeping an eye on me.

Mom and calf humpback off Tonga. A male suitor in the back ground keeping an eye on me.

The sperm whales, however, showed us such fantastic behavior, and when they felt social, they all wanted to interact with us. A few of them came in close enough for us to touch. Of course, we did not. We all wanted to. I mean, who doesn’t want to touch one of these beautiful, friendly potato heads. But we were all respectful of the rules and did not. We just enjoyed the encounters and soaked up every single moment with them. 

whales 4.jpg

The socializing whale encounters did not happen every day. Most days, the encounters with the whales were brief. The whales were in feeding mode and all business, and their time on the surface was limited. They spend an excess of 45 minutes underwater hunting down deep for diamond squids and giant squid. They would surface and rest for ten minutes, then drop down and do it again. It wasn't easy trying to figure out where they would emerge and when.

When they did finally surface, it was a race against time. The boat would motor over, and we would drop in for a chance at seeing and photographing the whales, as it or they swam past us. They are usually alone when they hunt. Those encounters were brief, but still fun, and what most of our time with them consisted of. 

whale.jpg

Of course, the best was when the whales were done hunting for the day and then began calling each other to sleep together or play. That is when the magic happened and what we all were hoping for. When the whales do this, it is some of the greatest moments you will ever experience with a wild animal. 

baby whale 2 edit.jpg

How they call to each other is with clicks and sonar, as well as breaching. They do not breach often, but they use it as a way to get the attention of the whales in the area. Letting each other know that it is time to play or sleep, or notify them to change directions.

It is hard to describe what you feel when those moments happen. Imagine being in the water and having a pod of eight large whales swim right up to you, stop in front of you, and begin rolling and playing around each other - all of them looking at you. They were all clicking away, trying to talk to us; damn, I wish I understood what they were saying. Moments like that are pure magic and forever engrained in my memory.

One of my encounters with the whales. Image by Hunter Ledbetter.

One of my encounters with the whales. Image by Hunter Ledbetter.

So overall, it was a fantastic experience and a magical two weeks at sea. It was not always easy, and the whales were not always there. We spent twelve days at sea looking for whales, and we found them ten days, with three solid days of socializing. We experienced bits of social behavior on a few other days, but not for very long. All I know is I am leaving this island dreaming of next season and the amazing surprises these remarkable animals have in store for us. 

Thank you guys for reading.