underwater photography blog

📸 Gloria – A Love Letter to My Underwater Housing

Image by Brad Roaman

I’ve never written about a camera system before—but Gloria deserves her moment.

For nearly 10 years, Gloria, my Aquatica housing for the Canon 5D Mark IV, has been right by my side.

From the Arctic seas to the warm rivers of Brazil, she has traveled the world with me. She's been the one constant in my journey as an underwater photographer.

*I’m not sponsored by Aquatica. This isn’t a sales pitch or a review—it’s just a thank you.

It’s a love letter to a piece of gear that has never let me down.

Image by Brad Roaman

Gloria has been dropped, dragged through the sand, banged around in pangas, and tossed into rinse buckets more times than I can count. But no matter where I’ve taken her, she’s held up.

She’s compact, tough, and reliable, and she’s done everything I’ve ever asked of her. From zero-visibility dives in the Amazon to crystal-clear encounters with orcas in Baja—Gloria has delivered.

Thanks to this housing, I’ve been able to grow and evolve as a photographer. Every shark pass, every dolphin glide, every rare wildlife moment captured underwater—Gloria helped make it happen.

That One Time She “Failed” Me (And Saved Me)

There’s only been one moment when Gloria didn’t respond.

I was at 150 feet—far deeper than I should have been. A couple dolphins had been hovering in front of me at 90 feet and were sinking slowly. I sank with them, caught in the moment. I think they did that on purpose.

Suddenly, my camera stopped working. I quickly tried to troubleshoot it, checking buttons and switches, but nothing was responding. In that moment of confusion, I looked at my depth gauge—and realized just how deep we had gone.

That brief equipment failure snapped me out of the moment. I ascended and regrouped. Looking back, I think Gloria was trying to tell me, “We’re not supposed to be here.”

So nope… she didn’t fail me. She helped keep me safe.


Image by Rodrigo Friscione

MY DOME PORT

Glass dome ports are beautiful—no doubt about it. They are the best way to photograph underwater. But I’ve always used acrylic. And here’s why:

Acrylic is forgiving. We live hard on our gear. From sandy beaches to rough boat rides to fast gear swaps in bad weather, things get banged up. If you scratch a glass dome, it’s game over. But acrylic? It is so forgiving.

I keep a bottle of Novus Fine Scratch Remover in my gear bag at all times. With a little care, I’ve been able to keep my dome port mostly scratch-free—even after all these years. And that’s saying something.

No, it’s not perfect. But it's good enough to keep shooting. And that’s what matters.

Underwater photography is demanding. The moments are fleeting. The conditions are brutal. But Gloria, has never let me down.

She’s helped me tell stories, capture dreams, and build a career I’m proud of.

So here’s to my girl.
To those perfect moments.
The wild places.
The calm water and the chaos.
To the images.
The close calls, and the quiet reliability.

Thank you, Gloria. You’ve been more than just a housing... You’ve been a partner.

What’s in My Bag: Gear I Trust and Recommend

Over the years, I’ve built a kit that works for me in real-world conditions.
Here are the essentials I always carry:

  • Aquatica Housing for Canon 5D Mark IV – My workhorse. Rugged, compact, and reliable.

  • Novus Fine Scratch Remover – Essential for acrylic dome maintenance.

  • Acrylic Dome Port – Not flashy, but field-tested and field-repairable.

  • Portable Handheld Comprerssed Airduster – Discovered thanks to my friend Brad. This thing removes water from buttons and seams so I can change batteries and cards between dives without risking leaks.

  • Lint-Free Cloths & Microfiber Towels – A single piece of lint inside your dome port can ruin a shoot. These help me avoid that nightmare.

*These aren’t “sponsored” items. They’re just the tools I rely on—gear that has helped me get the shot and stay in the water for over a decade.

Custom White Balance: The Key to Vibrant Underwater Images

This is Part 3 of a 10 part Natural Light Photography Series.

Thresher Shark off Malapascua Island, Phillipeans. Depth 70’ 1/250, f8, ISO 1250

When it comes to natural light photography underwater, no tool is more important than custom white balance. This technique allows you to compensate for the loss of color as you descend and is essential for capturing vibrant, true-to-life images. If you don’t master this skill, you’ll struggle to retain the natural beauty of the underwater world in your photos.

Why Custom White Balance Matters

Underwater, colors disappear quickly:

  • Reds vanish at around 15 feet.

  • Oranges at 30 feet.

  • Yellows at 60 feet.
    By the time you’re at 100 feet, you’re left with muted greens and blues.

Reef off Malapascua Island, Philippines. Depth 50 feet. 1/160, f4.5, ISO 800

Custom white balance tells your camera what “white” should look like in your current conditions, helping it correctly interpret other colors. Without it, even the most perfectly composed shots will appear dull and washed out. While post-processing can help to some extent, getting it right in-camera is the best way to ensure your images look stunning.

How to Set Custom White Balance

  1. Ignore Camera Presets:
    Built-in white balance presets (e.g., “daylight” or “cloudy”) aren’t designed for underwater use and won’t give you accurate results. Go straight to custom white balance mode.

  2. Find a Reference Object:
    Snap a photo of something white or gray that’s lit by the same light you’ll be shooting in. This tells your camera what white should look like in those conditions. Common references include:

    • White balance cards (designed for underwater use)

    • The sand on the ocean floor (a favorite of mine)

    • White fins, wetsuit trim, or dive slates

  3. Recalibrate Often:
    Light changes as you descend or ascend, so you’ll need to adjust your custom white balance every 10 to 20 feet to maintain accurate color representation.

Great Hammerhead off Tiger Beach, Bahamas. Depth 40 feet. 1/320, f8, ISO 250

What If You Don’t Have a White Balance Card?

Improvisation is key! Some options I’ve used include:

  • The bottom of a boat (if it’s white)

  • A diver’s tank (as a gray reference)

  • Propeller blades when swimming near the surface

Just be sure to communicate with your dive buddies beforehand if you plan to use their gear for calibration. No one wants to feel awkward when they catch you taking close-ups of their fins or tank!

Schooling Jacks at Cabo Pulmo, MX. Depth 50 feet. 1/320, f9, ISO 640

Tips for Success

  • Experiment Until You’re Happy: Don’t be afraid to adjust multiple times during a dive. Each dive site and condition is different, and the more you practice, the better you’ll become.

  • Pre-Set Your Camera Settings: Before setting white balance, make sure your shutter speed, aperture, and ISO are already dialed in for the conditions. This ensures a balanced exposure and gives you a better foundation to work with.

  • Use the Histogram: Check your histogram regularly to confirm proper exposure and avoid relying solely on the camera’s LCD screen, which can be misleading underwater.

The Freedom to Create

Once you’ve mastered custom white balance, you’ll unlock a new level of creative freedom in your photography. You’ll be able to produce vibrant images that capture the underwater world as you see it—full of life and color.

Coming Next

In the next blog, we’ll explore shutter speed and how to use it effectively to capture movement underwater. From slow-moving sharks to speedy dolphins, mastering your shutter speed is critical to creating sharp, dynamic images. Stay tuned!

THIS IS PART 3 OF A 10 PART SERIES.

PART ONE - Is Natural Light Photography Photography For You?
PART TWO - The Euphotic Zone! Your best friend.
PART THREE - Custom White Balance, Natural Lights Secret Weapon.
PART FOUR - Shutter Speed: Freezing Moments Underwater.
PART FIVE - Aperture: Achieving Sharpness and Depth Underwater
PART SIX - ISO: Balancing Light Sensitivity Underwater
PART SEVEN - Focus Points: Keeping Your Subject Sharp Underwater
PART EIGHT - The Histogram: Your Underwater Photography Lifeline
PART NINE - Post-Processing: Bringing Your Underwater Images to Life.
PART TEN - The Freedom of Natural Light Photography: A Connection to the Wild